I was a lone traveler coming at an inconvenient time. What could my people do but book me into the Riheka Guest House in Mbarara where, for 25,000Uganda shillings (about $15.00) a night, I would have a clean bed with mosquito netting, reliable electricity, a promise of hot water and breakfast. Over ten days off and on in three different rooms, the only hitch was the hot water.
The property is within walking distance of Main Street
Mbarara, across the street from palatial new U.N. digs. The grounds are well tended with gardens of
flowers found only at the equator – enormous things with saturated color that probably
eat small mammals. Tables set on the
lawn are served the same as tables in the dining room. The building is falling apart, a shadow of
some former splendor and – here again, staff people standing around, the owner
Mama comfy in her office while paint peels and slats fall off and dust
collects. Don’t show me the
kitchen.
The second room I had would not yield hot water. I asked Raymond, the Manager. “Oh, I will turn it on.” It never came on. Next day: “Oh, the problem you see is the switch for that tank is in another room and the guest must have turned it off.” Well OK then.
Dinner was chicken and chips or Tender Beef (spelled Gender Beef on the menu) and rice with two cold bottles of Guinness – 7,000 shillings – approximately $4.00
Edson was my breakfast server. The first day I congenially explained how I needed Nescafe with hot water first, then the Spanish omelet with toast and then the fruit, skip the tea and hot milk. It took three days, but after that it was, “The usual, Mzee?” A newspaper seller discovered I would be in my seat on the porch at approximately 8:00 a.m. and sold me New Vision through the open window.
There were few other guests at Riheka. A crazy Kenyan computer consultant who ranted into his cell phone. A medical student on exchange from Sweden. A couple meeting on a tryst. A team from UNHCR (Refugee Relief ) with a shiny vehicle; I coveted their truck. The best part of Riheka? When I go back, they will remember the Mzee.
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